Tools

What I keep on the bench.

Essentials

  • Intro Watch Kit

    Starting kit$10

    An introductory kit that provides the basics, hand pushers, cushion, rodico, and an air blower.

  • Expensive, and the one place I would not economise. Badly ground blades slip out of movement screws and mark the plate.

  • Precision Tweezers

    Starting kit$5

    Steel for general work. Keep a cheap brass pair alongside them for anything near a dial, since brass gives before the dial does.

  • Digital calipers

    Starting kit$20

    Needed the moment you have to trim a stem to length. Anything that reads to a hundredth of a millimetre is accurate enough for watch work.

Case and bezel

  • Thin enough to get under an SKX bezel without marking the case. Worth having two so you can work round the case in stages.

  • For screw-down casebacks. The adjustable ones slip if you underdo the tension, so clamp the case properly in a holder first.

  • Holds the watch steady and keeps the crystal off the bench. Replace it once it picks up grit.

  • Grips a screw-down caseback without touching it with metal. Slower than a wrench and it will not mark the case.

Dial and hands

  • Lifts all three hands square. Put a dial protector under it every single time, no exceptions.

  • Thin plastic discs that sit over the dial while you pull hands. Cheap, and they save dials.

  • For snipping unused dial feet flush. Ordinary wire cutters leave a stub that holds the dial off the movement plate.

  • A sharp, replaceable blade for lifting adhesive films and making precise cuts. Fit a fresh blade and keep it nearly parallel to the surface when starting an LCD reflector peel.

Movement

  • NH35 movement holder

    Starting kit$5

    Grips the NH series movements without putting pressure on the rotor. Plastic holders flex and let the movement twist.

Consumables

  • Rodico cleaning putty

    Starting kit$9

    Lifts dust, fingerprints and stray lume off dials and crystals. One block lasts a very long time.

  • Rocket dust blower

    Starting kit$3

    Use this before canned air, which can spit propellant onto a dial.

  • A smear on every gasket you refit. It helps the seal seat evenly and stops the rubber drying out.

  • Powder-free is the part that matters. Powdered gloves leave a residue that shows up under a domed crystal.

  • A drop on the stem thread stops the crown unscrewing itself off the stem.

  • Often used for camera lenses, two different tips for cleaning smudges and removing dust.

  • A soft, lint-free cloth for removing fingerprints and residue from LCDs, crystals and other delicate surfaces without scratching them.

Straps and bracelets

  • Compresses spring bars while fitting the rubber strap between the lugs.

Parts

The components these builds and tutorials call for.

Case and bezel

Consumables

Movements

  • Three hands and a date. The usual starting point for an NH parts build; match the date window, dial and hands before ordering.

  • Adds a day wheel to the date. Check the dial openings and day-wheel language.

  • The NH35 with the date work left out, and an open balance on show through the caseback. The one to buy if your dial has no date window.

  • Adds a central 24-hour GMT hand and keeps the date. Needs a fourth hand, a readable scale and enough room under the crystal.

  • Small 24-hour subdial and open-heart layout, without a date. Match both openings and the subdial hand to the movement.

  • Silver-finish skeleton movement. Choose the case and dial to show the works.

  • Gilt-finish skeleton movement. Choose the case and dial to show the works.

  • Grey-finish skeleton movement. Choose the case and dial to show the works.

  • Three-hand quartz movement with a date. The closest simple quartz match for an NH35 layout, but it needs a case, dial and hands made for the 2115.

  • Three-hand quartz movement with day and date. Check the calendar position, day-wheel language and dial drawing before ordering.

  • Dateless three-hand quartz movement with four steps per second. A good choice when you want smoother seconds without an automatic movement.

  • Spare stems for the budget VH31 build. Match the exact movement version and crown thread, then trim to fit the case.

  • Three hands, date and a central 24-hour GMT hand. It matches the NH34's functions, but requires its own compatible case, dial and hand set.

  • Sweep-second quartz movement with a small 24-hour subdial. It matches the NH39's display layout without the open-heart view.

  • Slim three-hand quartz movement with a date. A thinner alternative when a standard date display matters more than sweep-second motion.

  • Battery-powered movement with a mechanical-feeling chronograph. Match the dial feet, hands and case to the VK63 before ordering.

Dials and hands

  • Sold as a stack of three. Confirm the hole sizes match your movement family rather than the watch model.

  • Dial for the budget VH31 build. Check the selected dial's diameter and mounting against the movement and case.

  • Hands for the budget VH31 build. Confirm all three fittings and hand lengths for the selected movement, dial and case.

  • Measure the dial against the movement, not the case. Most are sold with several sets of feet so one dial fits a range of movements.

  • Listing supplied for the Evolution 9-inspired build. Confirm the dial feet, date-window position and hand hole sizes match the NH35 and selected case.

  • Listing supplied for the Snowflake-inspired build. Confirm dial feet, date-window position and hand hole sizes match the NH35 and selected case.

  • White dial with three black-ringed subdials, used in the Daytona Panda Homage build.

  • Hand set used in the Daytona Panda Homage build.

  • Hand set used in the NH34 Batman build, including the blue GMT hand.

  • Black dial with white hour markers and a date window at three o'clock, used in the GMT-Master II Batman Homage build.

  • White main dial with metallic-blue subdials and a date window. Its feet and subdial positions must match the VK63 movement.

Straps and bracelets

Casio

  • The standard F-91W in blue resin. Module 593 and the LCD are the same as every other F-91W, so any backing or strap mod that works on a black one works on this.

  • Sold in sheets and cut to size. This is what a negative-display conversion uses: the polariser is swapped through ninety degrees so the ground reads dark and the segments read light.

  • Silver metal faceplate with a red NASA logo, used in the NASA Moon Casio Royale build.

  • What the custom backing is printed on. Glossy stock keeps the colours dense behind the LCD, and photo paper is stiff enough to stay flat when the module goes back together.

  • Printable clear sheets for translucent artwork. Check that the film is compatible with your printer before printing.

  • Reflective backing for printed transparency-film backgrounds. Smooth the layers before trimming, and keep the metallic edges clear of electrical contacts.

  • Coloured lighting gel, sold in mixed packs. Cut a piece to the size of the display and lay it over the LCD to change what colour the watch reads.

  • Goes over the printed backing. It catches the light at an angle and is what makes the print read like a holo card rather than a photograph.

Nothing here needs buying all at once. Start with the tools for the job in front of you and the bench fills itself out. Pick a guide and work back from its tool and parts list.